Another very important step is to invest some time learning all the shipping terminology and apart from reading some good books, one of the best places is Bosco's Visual Glossary.
29-Sep-06 Started the model tonight! Carefully identified the parts and marked them off. It would seem that you build the hull in two halves which feels odd but when you think about it, it makes perfect sense. The first half of the keel is pinned to a "building foundation" which is a piece of supplied MDF. Then the frames are attached, followed by the decks.
There were no problems to speak of. Any "issues" were down to lack of modeling experience rather than kit errors. One example of this was that once I'd glued all the frames into their slots, I noticed that a couple of them stood proud above the deck level. Because the keel was pinned to the foundation board, it made it difficult to correct. I had to unpin the assembly and sand the frames down slightly before gluing the decks on.
One very positive tip I picked up on MSW was to dry-run all the assemblies and that saved me from making another couple of errors. Because this is my first model, I'm going at a snail's pace and feel like this thing's gonna take forever at this rate :-)
UPDATE : 26/9/11
I'm editing this section for a VERY good reason - when I completed the hull and had planked the frames and the decks, I then realised that Billing's had made a pretty vital omission. They fail to tell you that you need to cut some slots in the false keels to accommodate the masts later on! Do this BEFORE anything else; ignore it and your life will be much harder later on - believe me!
Below is a photo which hopefully explains what I mean. Cut a slot in both keel parts where the masts will sit. The slots need to be around 25mm deep and exactly the width of the masts (the two masts are slightly different diameters - measure!).
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